Journal

Notes from the island

When to visit Sri Lanka: two monsoons, one island

The island has two monsoons on opposite coasts, which means there is always somewhere with good weather. Here is how we plan around them.

Which class to book, where to sit, and why we recommend starting in Hatton rather than Kandy.

Between July and October, the largest seasonal meeting of Asian elephants in the world takes place beside an ancient reservoir.

Family-run guesthouses, fair wages for guides and no elephant rides. The choices behind every Sama itinerary.

Seasonal advice, new stays we have found and the occasional recipe. No more than twelve a year.